Genevieve Rose Atelier: The Modern Millinery
Have you been searching for the perfect headpiece for your wedding day? Look no further. The NK Bride team had the opportunity to interview Genevieve Rose Atelier, to ask about their custom hats and one-of-a-kind headwear. If you’ve ever felt like you’re not a hat person, these hand-made creations are sure to change your mind. From fashion to business, the Genevieve Rose Atelier brings the class and elegance of millenary to the 21 century.
Q: When did you know you had an interest in fashion? Was it something you grew up around?
A: I’ve always had an interest in fashion and fashion history but it remained a hobby until I found myself in London in 2010 with the opportunity to study millinery. I was so inspired by the old-world craft of hat making in a country where hats are still very much part of special occasion dressing. I was lucky enough to apprentice with a society milliner in London, and then a New York milliner who specializes in day wear when I moved back to New York in 2013.
In 2017 I established my own brand because I missed the kind of millinery I had first worked on in London. Bridal and derby headpieces are very feminine and intricate and require a lot of very fine hand-work and delicate materials. I really like the precision and delicacy of that kind of sewing and wanted to bring that style of headwear to America.
Q: What is your biggest design inspiration? Do you feel that it changes as your brand grows, or is there a consistent inspiration in your work?
A: Millinery is an old craft and hat-wearing is fundamentally a bit vintage so I always start from the point of tradition and work to make it fresh, modern and wearable. I get a lot of inspiration from the great hat styles of the past, and indeed many of my wooden molds are either vintage or based on vintage styles, but I like to craft them in modern, light-weight materials and to simplify the shapes.
Living in Manhattan is also daily inspiration for any designer! The cultures and fashions that you see on the street, the cultural life and the fabrics and trims available in the garment district mean that I’m spoiled for choice and it’s often a question of narrowing down the inspirations.
Q: You have made headpieces for some very important clients and brands, what has the experience been like? Do you ever get nervous when working for celebrity clients, or is it just an exciting challenge?
A: I have always worked with the stylists of celebrity clients (not with the clients directly) so that takes a little of the pressure off. The stylist usually comes to me with an idea and a specific outfit that we need to match the hat with, and I give suggestions of materials that could work and suggest any tweaks based on what is and isn’t possible in terms of hat construction. I’m quite particular about the finish of my hats so I give the same attention to detail to a celebrity client as I do to a bride or client who is buying a sunhat for a winter escape.
Q: All of your pieces are hand-crafted, so what is the value that this can add to hat construction? Are their specific looks or levels of craftsmanship that can only be achieved this way?
A: A hand-made hat has a definite personality of its own. I think there’s a sculptural element and movement to hand-made pieces that you don’t get with machine made hats. This is because it’s possible to make shapes and achieve finishes by hand that are not possible on a machine: for example, invisible stitching and unusually shaped straw and fabric.
Q: What does the consultation process look like when working to create a custom hat/headpiece? Should brides, or customers come in with fabric swatches and outfits in mind?
A: Brides usually contact me to make a custom headpiece to match a particular dress so we always start by having a good look at the dress. I note the silhouette (full or sleek? Sleeves or strapless?), fabric (floaty or stiff?) and and embellishments (delicate/ 3D / all over?). I also consult with the bride about what she is comfortable wearing and if she wishes to combine a headpiece with a veil for any part of the wedding.
As much as possible I try to work from existing styles in my collection because that way a bride can try on a piece and get the scale and feel of it before we start making changes. I find it’s a much more reliable process than sketches or imaginings and, because I have such a wide variety of pieces available, I have always found an existing piece to use as a starting point.
It then takes anywhere from 2 to 4 weeks to make the custom piece.
Q: Does face shape effect which headwear styles look best on a bride, or client? Are these style choices part of why custom designed hats are a better fit for many women?
A: First I would like to emphasize that there is a hat or headpiece out there for everyone! We are not accustomed to wearing hats and headpieces nowadays so it’s best to take some time to try on several pieces to see how the look and feel in person.
I think a person’s general ‘silhouette’ is more important than specific face shape when finding a hat or headpiece. For example a petite girl is usually better in a taller piece with a small base size than a large hat, whereas someone with an athletic figure is better in softer shapes.
A client’s hairstyle is also very important to consider. I once had a client with a lot of very curly hair try on a hat that was covered in tiny tassels - it didn’t work as there was far too much texture. She ended up choosing a hat the same shape but with a very large soft flower that that complimented, but didn’t compete with, her curls.
Q: What are some of the elements of modern headwear? Are there certain colors, fabrics, or styles that help you bring a modern flair to some more vintage influenced designs?
A: Modern fabrics and trims are exactly how I modernize many of the vintage shapes that I use. I generally prefer fairly clean and streamlined aesthetic so I like pearls, bold flowers and strong fabrics like taffeta and duchess satin. Modern straws for constructing the actual hat are also quite crisp and smooth which give a nice clean foundation to the hat.
Q: What is your favorite headwear style? Is there any style in particular that is nostalgic to you?
A: I absolutely love a pillbox hat and it is my goal to re-popularize them! They are such an easy style to wear. They are comfortable and simple to attach, yet you still look very polished and put together. Related to a pillbox are the new ‘hat-bands’ that are very popular at the moment. Being a very large headband, they are somewhere between a headband and a fascinator, and are a very chic, easy-to-wear style. These are both great styles for weddings at less traditional venues such as restaurants, a garden and city hall and for special occasions when you don’t want to wear a larger hat.
Q: As a professional who has worked with both a New York City market, and the fashion market in London, do you see any significant differences?
A: In terms of special occasion hats, the London market is much more developed. English ladies will always wear a special occasion hat to a wedding, christening or other special event. In the bridal world, I think London brides are perhaps a little more willing to think outside the style box and are happy wearing interesting headpieces instead of the traditional long veil. American brides are increasingly adopting these changes and it’s something I am working very hard to encourage.
Q: You’ve been fortunate enough to get the experience to work under some very talented milliners, what do you believe that this experience has brought to you as a designer and manufacturer?
A: Apprenticing under an established designer is perhaps the most important thing you can do as a young designer. There are so many different elements and challenges to managing a design business that can’t possibly be taught in schools and that risk tripping up an inexperienced designer that you experience first hand in an apprenticeship. I got to experience the various financial and organizational challenges of managing a small studio and also learn about the local customers’ wants and needs first hand. It’s also an important and valuable way to expose yourself to the areas of running a small business that you’re naturally not good at which later gives you the opportunity to seek help in those areas and concentrate on what you do best. For example, I am not great at (and don’t enjoy) marketing and PR, but I’m excellent organization!
Q: Fashion seems to be evolving at a quick rate, what changes does this bring to millinery work? Or is there a timeless sophistication to the styling of hats and headwear?
A: Trends in millinery don’t change nearly as quickly as other areas of fashion, partly because it’s not such a big part of our lives anymore and has taken on a timeless quality to it. That said, millinery is following the broader current trends in fashion of casual streetwear and comfortable wearability, so we’re seeing many more beanies and soft bucket hats on the runways than the ubiquitous, and more formal, fedoras favored 5 years ago.
Q: What trends do you see developing for bridal headwear that our modern brides can be inspired by?
A: Headbands of all shapes and sizes continue to be a very strong and growing trend for brides. I have a wide variety of styles available, from narrow silk bands embellished with tiny petals and pearls to statement-making ‘hat-bands’. Headbands with birdcage veils in net and tulle are very popular and one of my best-selling categories.
I think brides will continue to turn away from traditional, long wedding veils and will, instead, choose an interesting headpiece or headband - something that she can keep on for both the ceremony and reception and dance in!
Q: What is coming up for Genevieve Rose Atelier? Any exciting products or projects to look out for?
A: I’m getting ready to launch 3 new collections in the coming weeks; 2020 bridal, summer and my second ever special occasion collection, which is always a very exciting time to see how new styles are received by press and clients. I’m also designing a new 2020 winter collection and continue to work with the uber stylish Olivia Palermo on her wonderful new e-commerce website with some lovely new styles and colors exclusive to her.